Should fashion brands step up after the kantamanto market fire?

On January 2, 2025, a fire broke out in Kantamanto Market, Ghana, one of the largest secondhand clothing markets in the world, leaving approximately 10,000 traders affected. This disaster has prompted calls for donations to assist in the relief efforts, spearheaded by The Or Foundation, a non-profit organization focused on promoting a justice-led circular economy in the area since 2016. The foundation has already committed $1 million toward clean-up and rebuilding efforts for the affected traders, alongside an additional $88,000 from various contributors, aiming to raise a total of $5 million. In this context, many voices have been raised, calling on renowned fashion brands, whose discarded clothing often finds its way to Kantamanto Market, to take responsibility for the consequences of their business practices. Campaigners argue that major fashion corporations, including H&M, Adidas, and Nike, should play a role in helping the very people affected by the products that they produce and sell. The urgency of the situation is highlighted by the fact that the market provides employment for around 30,000 traders, yet nearly all of them lack access to healthcare. Activists emphasize that it is not just about providing aid; it is about accountability and justice for communities in the Global South. The public outcry has raised questions about the sustainability of fashion systems and how they exploit vulnerable areas while profiting immensely. Furthermore, local designer Rafael Kouto pointed out that the local communities cannot handle the repercussions of such disasters alone and emphasized the need for structural change within the global fashion industry. The aftermath of the fire is unfolding as Vestiaire Collective, a platform aimed at promoting sustainability in fashion, plans to mobilize its global community to join fundraising efforts for relief and rebuilding. The Or Foundation's previous engagement with fashion brands, including hosting Vestiaire Collective employees for volunteer work in Kantamanto, underscores the potential for collaboration that could aid not just in recovery but in rethinking the systemic issues within the industry.