Who really conquered Mount Everest first: Ernst Schmied and Jurg Marmet or others?

In 1956, a significant undertaking in mountain climbing took place during Albert Eggler's Swiss expedition to Mount Everest. The expedition was marked by the ascent of the neighboring mountain, Lhotse, on May 18 by Fritz Luchsinger and Ernst Reiss, which had never been summited before. This achievement set the stage for subsequent attempts on Everest itself, showcasing the South Col route's viability. On May 23, the expedition experienced success once more as Swiss mountaineers Ernst Schmied and Jurg Marmet became the third and fourth people to reach the summit of Mount Everest. This accomplishment was historic, especially following the landmark ascent made by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953. However, the evolving weather conditions and the impending monsoon limited further attempts at the summit after May 26, marking an end to this phase of exploration and aspiration for top climbers participating in the expedition. The expedition not only represented important milestones in mountaineering but also created a legacy for the planned summits exploring technical climbing prowess. Eggler's invitation to lead top climbers of the country led to a coordinated effort that highlighted the significance of teamwork in achieving mountain conquering feats. Moreover, this expedition established an important chapter in the history of Swiss mountaineering, blending continuous aspirations with the ongoing challenges of nature, which climbers must contend with in their pursuit of greatness.