Michael Kors questions the future of New York Fashion Week amid designer exodus

In a recent discussion on WWD’s podcast, Michael Kors highlighted a concerning shift among American fashion designers, many of whom have opted to showcase their collections in European cities instead of participating in New York Fashion Week. This trend is attributed to the enhanced media exposure, exclusivity, and consumer engagement that European locations provide. The likes of The Row, Tom Ford, Rick Owens, and others have embraced this move, aiming to align themselves with the luxury brands renowned in cities like Paris and Milan. This change not only elevates their brand status but also illustrates their participation in a broader luxury narrative that is often seen as being more credible and prestigious. Daniel Langer, a luxury market expert, emphasized that this geographic shift reflects deeper values about luxury branding and the enhanced engagement opportunities that stem from presenting collections in culturally rich environments. Paris and Milan are viewed as hubs where taste and cultural capital flourish, allowing American brands to signal their global aspirations more effectively. Langer’s framework of the 4E’s of luxury—emotion, engagement, experience, and exclusivity—further elaborates on why brands might prefer European venues. By showcasing in these iconic locations, brands can convey emotion through the storied heritage of cities like Paris, engage more effectively with audiences, create memorable experiences with elegant presentations, and achieve a sense of exclusivity that sets them apart from the commercial hustle of New York Fashion Week. Furthermore, he pointed out the significant differences in advertising strategies between Europe and the United States, suggesting that advertising in Europe is often seen as integral to cultural positioning rather than merely a marketing expense. However, there are concerns about the implications of this exodus for New York as a fashion capital. Langer highlighted a growing divide between American and European fashion contexts, raising questions about American brand identity in the luxury market. For consumers, this shift may evoke a sense of loss as American brands increasingly pursue prestige abroad. While the ecosystem in Paris and Milan caters well to luxury brand ambitions, there are opportunities for New York to reinvent its Fashion Week by fostering an atmosphere that promotes innovation and exclusivity, perhaps revitalizing its status and desirability. Kors underscored that the decline of New York's influence is not purely financial but also reflects the shifting conditions where brands can create the most significant value. Overall, the current trajectory suggests a cautious reevaluation of how American fashion brands approach their presentations and the platforms they choose to align with, often prioritizing global prestige over local identity. If New York can adapt and innovate, it may still play a pivotal role in the future of global fashion.