Climate change and overfishing jeopardize Vietnam's iconic fish sauce production

In Da Nang, Vietnam, Bui Van Phong has upheld a centuries-old tradition of fish sauce production since the end of the Vietnam War 50 years ago. He chose to remain in his village, allowing the family business of crafting nuoc mam to flourish into its fourth generation with his son, Bui Van Phu. Fish sauce holds significant cultural importance in Vietnam, serving as a vital condiment in its cuisine. However, recent challenges from climate change and overfishing have hindered the supply of anchovies, the primary ingredient in making fish sauce, threatening both its production and the families that rely on it for their livelihoods. Scientists warn that rising global temperatures and overexploitation of marine resources are jeopardizing fish stocks in the South China Sea, which is crucial for the fishing community. The continuing trend of overfishing will not only affect the anchovy population but may also lead to a rise in smaller, less nutritious fish species. This depletion poses a risk to numerous families engaged in fish sauce production, as they struggle with increased costs and dwindling stocks of high-quality anchovies. Bui Van Phu has expressed concern that many families might abandon their time-honored fish sauce production due to elevated anchovy prices. As the global demand for fish sauce surges, particularly from markets in the U.S., Europe, and Japan, producers are faced with both an opportunity and a dilemma. They must improve food safety standards to compete on the international stage while navigating the local challenges of sustainable fish sourcing. Despite the risks, these producers remain deeply committed to their craft, recognizing that each family possesses unique secrets to its fish sauce recipes that have been passed down through generations. Fish sauce is more than a mere ingredient for many in Vietnam; it embodies cultural heritage and familial identity. The story of Bui Van Phong and his son highlights the ongoing battle to preserve this artisanal legacy in the face of adversity. Without significant changes to address the environmental issues confronting their industry, the future of fish sauce production in Vietnam remains uncertain, with potentially dire consequences for thousands of families who depend on this age-old tradition.