Artisans turn to ancient recipes for UK cheese revival

The revival of traditional British cheeses has gained momentum as artisans rediscover ancient recipes that were nearly lost due to mass production. Wensleydale and Lancashire cheeses, once prevalent, saw a drastic decline post-World War II, with only a handful of producers remaining. However, recent efforts by small-scale cheesemakers, such as Roger Cowgill with his Lowfields cheese, are bringing these historic flavors back to life. Cowgill's recipe is based on a 1930s government booklet, showcasing a commitment to regional authenticity. Artisans are focusing on the unique characteristics of their local environments, which influence the taste of their cheeses. Factors such as the breed of cows, the pastures they graze, and the maturation process contribute to a distinct terroir. For instance, Sally Hattan's farm produces Stonebeck cheese, emphasizing seasonal production aligned with the cows' calving cycle. This approach mirrors practices in countries like France and Italy, where regionality in cheese production is celebrated. The growing interest in artisanal cheeses reflects a broader trend among consumers who seek to understand the origins of their food. John Farrand from the Guild of Fine Food highlights that ancient recipes not only provide a narrative for cheesemakers but also enhance the personality of the cheese itself. This connection to heritage and locality resonates with food lovers, fostering a deeper appreciation for the craft. Despite the progress, many traditional recipes remain unexplored, such as the 17th-century Suffolk bang, which was known for its durability. The revival of these cheeses not only preserves culinary history but also enriches the British cheese landscape, offering diverse flavors and stories to consumers.