Dec 15, 2024, 12:00 AM
Dec 15, 2024, 12:00 AM

Climbing Everest is not as hard as you think with bottled oxygen

Highlights
  • Climbers using bottled oxygen on Mount Everest feel as though they are at about 19,000 feet.
  • The majority of climbers on Everest, about 95 percent, rely on supplemental oxygen.
  • The increase in climbers poses significant safety risks, especially during unexpected storms.
Story

In recent years, the perception of climbing Mount Everest, the highest peak in the world, has shifted significantly due to the widespread use of bottled oxygen. At 29,035 feet above sea level, reaching the summit is an immense challenge, typically beyond the reach of most climbers. However, research indicates that climbers using oxygen at a conservative flow rate of 2.5 liters per minute can feel as if they are at an altitude just under 19,000 feet. This substantial difference in perceived altitude may contribute to the growing popularity of expeditions to Everest. Climbers utilizing supplemental oxygen constitute approximately 95 percent of those attempting the summit, which raises concerns about crowding on the mountain. The convergence of numerous climbers, particularly on summit days, poses safety risks, notably in the event of adverse weather conditions. The overwhelming number of climbers could inhibit rapid descents if an unexpected storm occurs, reminiscent of the disastrous events depicted in Jon Krakauer's book "Into Thin Air." The situation is not unlike that of other high peaks, such as Kilimanjaro, where climbers also experience a similar perceived altitude while using supplemental oxygen. This raises questions about the authenticity of the climbing experience. As noted by renowned climber Reinhold Messner, who is critical of the modern climbing scene, those who now ascend Everest with oxygen can often do so with a level of comfort and support that diminishes the challenge traditionally associated with high-altitude climbing. Decision-makers within the climbing community, including guides and expedition companies, often encourage climbers to prepare themselves for the rigors of the ascent. However, as the mountain attracts primarily non-professionals, the inherent risks increase, especially when faced with the reality of adverse conditions. The paradox of accessible climbing experiences against the backdrop of environmental hazards paints a complex picture of modern mountaineering. As a former climber of Aconcagua, another prominent peak, the author reflects on personal experiences and expresses skepticism about the attraction of Everest today. With substantial financial investment and the allure of fame, many climbers overlook the inherent dangers linked to overcrowding and challenges presented by the mountain's climate.

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