Discovering the Perfect Pairing of Portuguese White Wine and Cod

In Portugal, there is a longstanding tradition of pairing red wines with salted cod, particularly in the northern regions where high-acid reds from Vinho Verde are popular. However, during a recent family holiday, the author discovered a preference for Portuguese white wines, which offer a diverse range of flavors and pair beautifully with cod. Notable selections included Esporão’s blend from Alentejo, characterized by smoky oak and fruity notes, and Textura da Estrela Branco from the Dão region, which features a blend of local grape varieties that enhance the dish's flavors with sea-salty minerals. The appeal of Portuguese wines lies in their unique grape varieties, many of which are not found elsewhere. The author highlights the versatility of blends, while also appreciating the distinct characteristics of individual grape varieties. For instance, the Dão cerceal from Waitrose’s Loved & Found collection is noted for its fresh and nutty profile, making it a delightful companion for bacalhau. Alvarinho, known as Albariño in Spain, is another grape that shines in Portugal, particularly in the Vinho Verde region. When crafted by skilled winemakers, it can produce wines that balance refreshing citrus notes with floral and herbal undertones. Anselmo Mendes, a prominent winemaker from Monção, exemplifies this with his Contacto wine, created in collaboration with the Symington family, which is perfectly suited for pairing with salted cod. Ultimately, the exploration of Portuguese white wines reveals a rich tapestry of flavors that complement the country’s culinary traditions, encouraging a shift in pairing practices that celebrates the unique qualities of these wines.