Irish winemaker says traditional grapes won't grow in Ireland

Ireland's wine industry is small but growing, with new vineyards being planted across the country. The largest recent planting is near Slane in County Meath, where about 36,000 vines have been put on 30 hectares of land. This expansion comes despite the challenges of Ireland's cool, damp climate, which limits the grape varieties that can be grown reliably.

David Llewellyn, an experienced winemaker from Wales who has been growing grapes in Ireland for years, warns that many new plantings are using traditional grape varieties that are not suited to Irish conditions. He says that in Ireland, growers cannot hope to cultivate these grapes successfully, and that people are planting them anyway, which leads to poor results. Llewellyn emphasizes that success is possible if growers choose the right varieties, plant them in the right locations, and have the necessary skills and knowledge. He himself has three and a half hectares producing 14 different varieties, including red, white, and pet nat sparkling wine. His vineyard is certified organic, and he uses disease-resistant hybrid grapes that do not require sprays, making them well adapted to Ireland's climate.

Another winemaker, Dennison, who is setting up an Irish winemakers' association with nearly 30 potential members, is optimistic about the industry's future. He expects to produce around 4,500 bottles this year, with a goal of reaching 15,000 bottles once his vines are in full production. He looks to Sweden and Denmark as models, because their wine industries are following a similar path. However, he notes that spring frost is a major threat, requiring the use of burners and candles to protect the early white grape crop.

Climate change expert Professor John Sweeney is not surprised by the emergence of Irish vineyards. He points out that rising summer temperatures and drier summers, as predicted by climate models, will make viticulture more viable in Ireland. However, he warns that the biggest threat to the industry's credibility is the production of what he calls 'fake Irish wine'—wine that is not genuinely produced from Irish-grown grapes. He believes that consumers have not yet been exposed to this issue, but they will become aware as the industry matures.