In the West Village of New York City, a new restaurant named Somssi has opened its doors, showcasing a unique blend of casual dining and high culinary standards. Ahris Kim, the managing partner, previously served as the director of operations for Na:Eun Hospitality, which is known for its ultra-high-end Korean-inspired tasting counter, Atomix. The restaurant's name, pronounced 'somm-shi,' translates to 'time-honed skill' in Korean, reflecting the expertise behind its menu. The physical space of Somssi was formerly occupied by Acru, an Australian-influenced tasting-menu restaurant that closed last year.
Somssi's interior is designed to be charming and inviting, featuring lace curtains, vintage baking tins as wall sconces, and mismatched wooden furniture. However, the restaurant's appeal goes beyond aesthetics; it offers a confident and well-executed dining experience. The menu, crafted with the help of culinary director J.P. Park, includes a variety of dishes that draw on diverse culinary influences, with subtle Korean elements incorporated throughout. For instance, a classic bolognese is enhanced with mustard-greens kimchi, while a picanha steak is served with a peppercorn sauce reminiscent of japchae.
Among the standout dishes is a double mutton chop inspired by Chinese cumin lamb, which is presented in a visually striking manner. Another notable item is a wedge of caraflex cabbage, served with a rich egg-and-crab sauce, although this dish is no longer available. The restaurant also offers a selection of small cocktails and spirits, emphasizing a playful approach to beverages.
Despite the challenges faced by the restaurant industry, including the overwhelming popularity of mediocre dining options, Somssi aims to carve out its niche by providing a memorable and enjoyable dining experience. The combination of high standards, a welcoming atmosphere, and a thoughtfully curated menu positions Somssi as a noteworthy addition to the New York dining scene.
